If you have felt your blood rushing while seeing someone manipulating and maneuvering the marauding waves in the ocean, and you actually do not know how, but if you are tempted to try it out during your next visit to a good wave surfing destination, we’ll help you gain basic knowledge about “wave surfing” so that you can enjoy this adventure play at your best and with perfect precaution. All you need is simple concept of having a breaking waves, a board and a brave and energetic athlete. So get ready to get wiped out again and again by water and subsequently holding the right pace and grip of it.
Types of Waves
Depending upon the variables like size and directions of waves, currents, wind, etc. waves have being categorized as below:
- Crumbly Waves
These waves are also referred as mushy waves, because they do not contain great powers. These gently breaking waves are not very steep, fast, or hollow, and are produced when the bottom contour is more gradual. This make’s it ideal for beginners.
- Reform Waves
These types of waves die down when hitting deep water and then break again or reform as a result of varying depth of the water. These are usually preferred by experienced surfers.
- Surging Waves
These are most dangerous and are most often present on steep or rocky shores.
- Standing Waves
These waves are also called the stationary waves, because they are constant and do not loose strength.
- Rolling Waves
These are most familiar waves and are highly preferred by surfers, because they break in stable pattern.
- Dumping Waves
These are very unpredictable waves and limited to experienced surfers only.
Types of Breaks:
- Beach Break
These Waves break on sandbars that form on the ocean floor due to currents and wave action. The sand bars can shift with different storm and swell patterns which means that waves don’t break in the same spot every time. The sandy bottom at these breaks makes them a safer choice for Beginners.
- Reef Breaks
Unlike beach breaks, Reef breaks are waves that break on shelves of rock or corals. These are more consistent and powerful breaks. If you are a beginner planning to tackle a reef break, it’s a good idea to have a friend or someone like Surf with Amigas point you in the right direction to help you find the channel and avoid getting stuck inside on the reef.
- Point Breaks
Point breaks are simply areas where waves break on a section of land that juts out from shore. They can have rock, reef, sand bottoms or a combination of rock or reef and sand. The waves form as a result of a point break peel for a longer time than reef or beach breaks.
Ideal Destinations For Wave Surfing
- Ulu Watu – Bali
Famous for being home to the oldest Hindu temple in Bali, UluWatu is also known for its professional-grade waves. The UluWatu temple sits atop an enormous cliff, overlooking the breaking waves and talented surfers below.
- Andaman Islands – India
Andaman Islands are perfect for all intermediate and advanced surfers. There are plenty of spots for beginners too.
- Tamarindo and Playa Grande Beaches – Costa Rica
One of the best beginner surfing destination in the world, is Costa Rica. Here the beaches are of warm water that generates waves that reaches height of 3 meters, delicious cuisine with beautiful views, what more is needed.
- Arugam Bay – Sri Lanka
On the eastern coast of Sri Lanka, the relaxed village of Arugam Bay is known for its steady waves during the peak season of May-November. With its laid-back vibe and wide variety of restaurants, Arugum Bay is the perfect place to relax and enjoy the water.
- Taghazoute – Morocco
Morocco is a premier winter surfing destination and with number of choices like Taghazout, Agadir, Dakhla & Tamraght for beginners. And high waves at Anchor point, Killer point, Essaouira, Safi and Boilers. It’s a lot more fun for experienced surfers to test their skills.
- Biarritz/ Anglet / Guethary – France
There are more to France than bangette, Cheese and wine. The best surf in France is found on the Atlantic coast, spectacular off the beaten path, waves in Brittany & Normandy are home to best waves in the world, where as Anglet, Biarritz, Guethary brings killer waves, which works perfectly in offshore winds. It pumps all year around thanks to ferocious North Atlantic swells that make their way down the Golfe de Gascogne (Bay of Biscay).
- Oahu – Hawaii
The north shore of Oahu in Hawaii is this intense testing ground for surfing. It’s the place every professional and up-coming surfer flocks around the world every year just to get a little of what this seven-miles stretch of beach has to offer. One can experience the heaviest beatings by waves and also biggest, most extreme barrels being ridden by the greatest wave riders.
Safety Tips For Safe Surfing
- Always make sure that lifesavers or lifeguards are around when you are surfing.
- Always protect your head with your arms first when you fall off your surfboard or wipeout.
- Keep strong hold of your surfboard and always hold it on to your side.
- Learn about Rip Current. Rips usually occurs when a channel forms between the shore and a sandbar, and large waves have built up water which then returns to sea, causing a drag effect.
- Never run and dive in the water. Even if you have checked before, conditions can change.
- Plan your entry and exit before to start surfing
- Float with a current or undertow. Stay calm. Don’t try to swim against it. Signal for help and wait for assistance.
